This month we explore the world of Pigmentology and look at Microblading vs PMU when undertaking colour selection.


Here a few key considerations when undertaking colour selection for your clients:


Think about the technique you are performing and the desired end result when choosing the correct pigment shade for your client

When picking a pigment colour for a permanent make up (PMU) procedure it is important to think about the technique you are about to perform. A pigment colour chart often recommends a selection of go-to colours for a particular client type e.g., lighter neutral or ashy tones for blondes or rich and intense browns for brunettes etc. This offers the therapist a little bit of guidance, but it is crucial to think of the long term results you are trying to achieve for your client and to pick the colour according to the end result required. Hairstrokes will always look more realistic and vibrant if performed with warmer tone, cooler pigment tones will make them look more intense but less dimensional. Neutral or cooler tones are great at creating contrast and definition so that’s a great option for bold ombre brows. You can also never forget about the client’s skin type. If it is dry and dehydrated, mature and thin, covered with freckles or showing signs of redness a warmer to neutral pigment colour is your best choice to ensure great healed results.

Pigment colour + client’s skin tone + technique = final result


The same pigment shade can vary in colour intensity depending on the size and type of blade (Microblade vs. Nano Blade) you use

One pigment colour has a potential of creating many different results on the same client. When you Microblade the same colour can look lighter or darker depending on the blade you have picked for the procedure, if you’re using a Nano Blade (0.15) even some of the most intense pigment colours will look much lighter and softer, because the incision created in the skin by a nano blade is ultra fine, and therefore less pigment can be implanted into the skin. If you’re using a classic (0.18) or thicker (0.20+) blade however the intensity of the colour will be visible much more, as the incision created is wider, more pigment gets delivered to the skin offering a much more obvious and darker result. You should always adjust your pigment intensity to the type of blade that you’ll be using. Opt for darker tones with thinner blades and softer tones with thicker blades for optimum results each time

Same pigment colour + different blade = different final results

Be mindful of the effects of healing process when selecting the correct pigment shade

When performing Ombre Brows you superficially scratch the top layer of the skin in order to create a dusty, dispersed soft look. At the end of the procedure a lot of pigment will sit on top of the damaged skin, making it look quite intense, however when the brows heal the final result will be much softer, about 50% lighter. This is important to remember when picking a pigment colour for the procedure and it's a good idea to always go a tone or two darker in anticipation of the pigment fading process.

If you dilute the pigment the final result will be less visible

Another important factor to consider is the fact that a lot of the times an artist will dilute the pigment with a clear solution for all shading work carried out with a device. The pigment diluting solution doesn’t change the colour itself but makes it less potent, reducing its impact in the skin, so the more you dilute the pigment the less visible your final results will be.

Here Monika Ludwiczak, the Queen of PMU and Co-Founder of Everlasting Brows shares her expert tips for colour selection when undertaking Microblading and PMU:

  • For Microblading, use a lighter shade for thicker blades and a darker shade for thinner blades to achieve similar results (for example Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow Pigment in Tamara with a 0.25 Blade will create the same results as Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow Pigment in Kim with a Nano Blade).

  • You will also find that you can create natural results using Nano Blades in combination with what would normally be considered a dark pigment (such as Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow Pigments in Yaya, Domonique and Naomi). BEST ADVICE: always add a drop of warmer pigment to your microblading pigment for the most realistic results

  • Lighter pigments such as Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow Pigments in Giselle, Salma and Tamara may not be visible enough with the Nano Blade.

  • For shading with bigger needle configuration use lighter pigment colour to build the brow shape (like Everlasting Salma+Kim pigment mix) or darker pigment if you’re using 1R cartridge (such as Everlasting Kim+Yaya pigment mix)

  • Darker pigment colour (such as Everlasting pigments Naomi, Yaya and Alek) will help you create intense results in less layers, making the procedure quick and effortless but such shades are not suitable for every client.

  • For shading, even light colours can become quite intense if applied in many layers, used undiluted or delivered to the skin using larger needle configurations (3R+)

  • When diluting pigment, the results become less potent, the more you dilute, the lighter the pigment and the more layers are usually necessary for shading (for example diluted Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow in Yaya will create results like undiluted Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow in Domonique).

  • When working on oily skin, you should favour shading over Microblading and darker pigments over lighter in order to achieve better results. 

  • Also consider the skin colour you are working on, PMU & Microblading is all about creating enough contrast with the natural skin tone, on darker skin tones we prefer to use shading with darker pigments as Microblading will appear lighter and may not create enough contrast to make a difference. 

  • Each Everlasting pigment colour is beautiful in its own way, but mixing two or more colours is also an option, so have fun mixing pigment colours to create custom blends that best suit your clients, and remember to make notes of the pigment mix for future reference.

Did you know?

  • Everlasting Brows was the first company to manufacture and introduce the industry’s first true to colour pigments using safer ingredients to colour-match the skin.

  • Everlasting Brows pigments are creamy and highly concentrated, ensuring your hair strokes remain crisp and shading.

  • At Everlasting Brows, we believe that you do not need to stock 50+ shades, you just need few good ones. All out our pigments are great used alone or in combination with others to unlock more colour options.

  • Everlasting Brows pigments heals true to colour and do not need modifier.

  • Everlasting Brows stable pigment formulation means that pigment doesn't fade into unwanted tones.

  • Everlasting pigments contain only highest quality raw ingredients and are produced in Germany.

  • Each pigment batch is tested for impurities - and heavy metals and is approved by InkCert; fulfilling all toxicological demand of CoE ResAp. Less impurities mean that skin will be more perceptive to pigment, which will create better healed results.

  • Formula ensures high pigment saturation, no added water.

  • Non toxic, non corrosive, non irritating, non photo-toxic; meeting all health standards.

  • Sterilised according to medical device directive, meaning additional peace of mind for your client’s to know that you have chosen what’s best for their wellbeing and beauty.


Discover Everlasting Brows Essential Eyebrow Pigment Collection by Monika L

This beautiful collection of eyebrow pigments features everything that you need to get started. Choose from our best sellers and industry must have’s, including Everlasting Brows PMU / Microblading Brow Pigment in Yaya, Kim, Belinda, Tamara and Salma <3 In that same order: Dark Brown, Chocolate, True Brown, Classic Taupe and Toffee. With Everlasting Brows our pigments heal true to colour, therefore you do not have to mix or modify the colours, but you still can, if you want to achieve a different shade. Every single one of the shades is 100% usable and you will find yourself reaching for all of them. Enjoy!