As we enter the festive season, you may have seen the Frosted PMU Lips Trend popping up on your Instagram feeds. 

Although this look may seem very aesthetically appealing and Insta-worthy for the festive season, PMU Artists and clients need to weigh the potential aesthetic and health implications carefully. Here Monika Ludwiczak, the Queen of PMU and Co-Founder of Everlasting Brows discusses the key issues surrounding the Frosted PMU Lips Trend. 

The "Frosted PMU Lips" controversy refers to a debate within the Permanent Makeup community, where concerns have been raised about the aesthetic outcomes and potential risks associated with the frosted lip technique (also called the diamond lips, shimmering effect and frozen lips). This technique involves using Permanent Makeup to create a frosted or shimmering effect on the lips, mimicking the look of frosted lipstick that was popular in the late 90s. 

The key issues with this trend include:

Aesthetic Concerns:

• Outdated Trend: Although the frosted lip effect can look good on your social media feed, it is an outdated trend and may not age well. Unlike classic or natural lip blush techniques, the frosted look is more niche and may not appeal to everyone, potentially leading to clients regretting the decision as the trends change.

• Difficult to Correct: If a client becomes dissatisfied with the frosted look, it can be challenging to modify or remove, especially since permanent makeup pigments used for that particular technique are more permanent than other colours and can fade unpredictably over time.

• From Matt Effect to Cottage Cheese: The results of frosted lips we normally see online seem vibrant and “juicy” with the right amount of shimmer. This is due to the fact that straight after the procedure a balm or gloss is applied to the lips, giving them an extra shiny and healthy appearance.  However often the lips can heal to appear very matt, almost dry and no amount of balm or lip gloss will be able to correct that. This can start to appear even worse as the whole lip PMU fades and when the regular pigment particles leave the skin and disappear - the white component of the pigment remains – causing a very unpleasant cottage cheese effect on the lips caused by the UV rays.

Technical Challenges:

• Complexity of Application: Achieving a frosted effect requires precise application and advanced technique. The pigments used to create that look can be more difficult to work with than standard pigments, leading to inconsistent results if not applied correctly.

• Uneven Fading: Extremely light colours used to create the shimmering effect may fade unevenly, leading to patchiness or an unnatural appearance over time, which could require additional corrective procedures, which aren’t easy and often cannot correct the uneven results completely

• Removal or Correction: Unfortunately laser removal can make it worse, as it burns the pigment, making it appear darker – like burnt caramel. Chemical removal is also often unsuccessful, leaving clients with no option but to try and live with it or pay for multiple corrections to try and hide it.

Health and Safety Concerns:

• Pigment Ingredients: There are few concerns about the ingredients used in white or “frosted pigments”. These pigments might contain components that could potentially cause allergic reactions or other skin issues.

• Healing Process: The healing process for frosted lips can differ from traditional PMU techniques. Some clients have reported extended healing times or complications due to the reflective nature of the pigments, which could impact how the skin heals and retains the pigment following the procedure.

Client Expectations:

• Miscommunication: There is a risk of miscommunication between artists and clients regarding the final look of frosted PMU lips. Clients may expect a subtle shimmer but end up with a more pronounced metallic effect, leading to dissatisfaction.

• Long Term Satisfaction: As with any PMU technique, there’s a concern that clients might not be fully aware of how the frosted look will age over time. Unlike natural lip blush, which tends to fade to a soft tint, frosted lips may lose their shimmer and appear dull, matt or uneven.

EXPERT TIPS FOR FROSTED LIPS:

• Call for Caution: If you’re offering Frosted PMU Lips, we recommend extra thorough consultations to ensure clients understand the potential risks and long-term implications. Be sure to only offer this technique if you are properly trained and know how to apply a layer of light colour very superficially to avoid all the issues mentioned above. To be extra safe and for people with less experience it’s a good idea to dilute the frosted pigment to avoid over saturation.

• Informed Consent: Emphasis on providing clients with detailed information about the technique, including possible outcomes and maintenance requirements, has become a priority for ethical practitioners. Educating clients about the treatment limitations as well as informing them about available alternative options of treatment is a must.

• Continued Education and Safe Products: We encourage PMU Artists to stay updated on best practices and emerging research regarding pigment safety and application techniques, particularly when working with unconventional effects like frosting. 

Conclusion:

The Frosted PMU Lips trend controversy highlights the importance of staying informed and making careful decisions in the rapidly evolving field of permanent makeup. While the technique can offer a unique and striking look, both artists and clients need to weigh the potential aesthetic and health implications carefully. It is important to remember that just because a technique is surrounded by controversy or even a bad write up, it doesn’t mean you have to completely discard it as a tool from your portfolio. If you’re a skilled artist equipped with the right tools for the job and with the knowledge to guide you through the process please continue to frost the lips that require frosting.