KNOW YOUR PIGMENT INGREDIENTS - WHAT IS GOING INSIDE OUR SKIN

Educating yourself as a semi permanent makeup artist or a client is really important. Microblading and shading pigments into the skin is a trend and big business that is here to stay… of course we all want to get the right colour, but WHAT is actually in the colours being put in the skin for longterm results, and how do I know what is right for me and safe for my clients?

There are a number of regulating bodies around the world. The FDA does not regulate any inks or pigments. There are administrations that do - but its always good to know for YOURSELF what is in your microblading or semi permanent makeup line.

Everlasting Brows are committed to education and information in this area. We will explore the ingredients that we use, and advise on some other ingredients that you should be on the look out for.

PIGMENT SAFETY & CERTIFICATION

Europe holds the rest of the world to account where it comes to certification of semi permanent makeup and microblading pigments. Permanent makeup treatments have been popular here for well over 100 years, so the experience and knowledge of the market is put to good use. The European Commission have a regulatory system to weed out potentially dangerous toxins and chemicals.

The Council of Europe Resolution (CoE ResAP) (2008) is an internationally recognised benchmark. It includes a list of negative substances that should not be present in tattoo and permanent makeup inks, also establishing the maximum concentrations for some impurities that can be contained in the ink.

This certification is a good place to start. BUT there are still non favourable ingredients used in some inks and pigments under this resolution, saying that, many will change from January 2022 when new REACH regulations come in. 

HOW DO I KNOW WHATS IN MY MICROBLADING OR SEMI PERMANENT MAKEUP?

Reputable brands will have ingredients on their bottle, they will also have a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) which is a document that contains more detailed information on the potential hazards. Also known as a SDS or PSDS, the formula of your pigments is CRUCIAL and cannot be downplayed.
If your brand does not provide both or uses sentences such as “Safe pigment mix”, discard or apply on fake skin practice only.

WHAT’S IN EVERLASTING BROWS PIGMENTS?

Non toxic, non corrosive, non irritating, and non photo toxic Everlasting Brows Pigments are made in Germany, with only the highest quality raw ingredients. Each batch is tested for impurities and heavy metals and is approved by InkCert - fulfilling all toxicological demands of CoE ResAP. Less impurities means that skin will be more receptive to pigment, which creates better healed results. Everlasting Pigments are highly concentrated, without any unnecessary added water or humectants and each batch will have a sample of the pigment stored in our warehouse for 30 years for ease of insurance investigations if such ever arise.

They are vegan friendly and never tested on animals, just because bunnies do not need “brows on point”.

Aside from the compounds to make up the colour - Everlasting Brows pigments contain just 4 ingredients!  All non-toxic ink carriers…..

PROPYLENE GLYCOL 

GLYCERIN

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA EXTRACT

NOVOXX (discussed later in the blog)

Let’s Break It Down…

C XXXX
These are the colour codes for the iron oxides, titanium or carbon components. We ALWAYS use the highest grade available. These are the basis of great colour - high quality raw materials are not cheap, so always be inquisitive of seemingly “inexpensive” pigment lines.
Our line is a hybrid of organic and inorganic components to ensure stable line that fades over times instead of turning into unwanted tones.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL & GLYCERIN
These are non-toxic carriers & humectants, these solvents act to carry the pigment down your needle or microblade. We add just enough for a creamy texture, but not too much - so that the pigment is still highly concentrated. Propylene Glycol (alcohol) also disinfects and increases the skins permeability. We see it safely used in production of ice-creams and intraveneous medication. 

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA EXTRACT
Also non-toxic carriers, in cosmetics and personal care products, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) function as a skin conditioning agents that is also soothing and anti-inflammatory that helps with skin irritaton post PMU & Microblading treatments. 

WHAT’S NOT IN EVERLASTING BROWS PIGMENTS?

Worryingly, there are still a number of potentially questionable ingredients which can be found in some of the worlds most popular microblading and semi permanent makeup inks & pigments.

DMDM HYDANTOIN (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER)
DMDM Hydantoin is an antimicrobial preservative. It slowly releases formaldehyde and works as a preservative by making the environment less favorable to bacteria. The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies formaldehyde as a human carcinogen - proven to cause cancer and although longterm effects of dmdm hydantoin within the skin have not been studied yet, we believe it is a matter of time before this ingredient is banned. 

PALMITATE (PALM OIL)
Palmitate can be derived from any combination of vegetable oil such as olive, coconut, canola and/or palm oil. Some producers use palm oil to make derivatives like Vitamin A Palmitate, it can be tricky to know for sure what the source of the Palmitate is, but what we do know for sure is that it is photosenitiser and it creates skin irritation of even lesions in presence of UV light. 

ROISIN
A binding agent, and potentially skin sensitising substance known for allergic reactions. This is an ingredient also used in printing inks, soap, varnishes and sealing waxes.

ETHYLENE GLYCOL
A toxic compound found in antifreeze and break fluid. It can be used as a pigment carrier.

QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS / QUATS
are potent disinfectant chemicals commonly found in disinfectant wipes, sprays and other household cleaners that are designed to kill germs. It is often the stuff that allows a product to claim to be antibacterial. Pesticides that are potentially skin irritating.

P-PHENYLENEDIAMENE (PPD)
Used widely in hair dyes and one ingredient you definitely should not see in your pigment line. Allergic reactions to PPD include rashes, contact dermatitis, itching, blisters, open sores, scarring and other potentially harmful effects all amplified when used on open skin.

BENZOPYRENE
A common ingredient in black tattoo inks, which has been proven to cause skin cancer in animals.

NICKEL, CHROMIUM & COBALT
Heavy harmful metals, sometimes seen in pigment lines, with the potential for skin irritation, complications and interference with MRI scans.

VEGETABLE OR PLANT BASED DYES
Vegetable Pigments can be very dangerous when used for permanent cosmetics. Allergies to vegetable and fruit dyes as so many people have developed life threatening allergies.

COCONUT DIETHANOLAMINE
or Cocamide DEA, is a diethanolamide made by reacting the mixture of fatty acids from coconut oils with diethanolamine. It is a viscous liquid and is used as a foaming agent in bath products like shampoos and hand soaps, and in cosmetics as an emulsifying agent.
In pigment lines we sometimes see this used as a lubricant.

YOU MIGHT WONDER, HOW DOES EVERLASTING KEEP THE PIGMENT STERILE?

This is a great question, you might have already noticed that we do not use any potentially harmful preservatives in our pigment, so how does it stay sterile?
Perhaps you have heard of NOVOXX system; which is a mineral compound, that does not cause skin sensitivities or allergies, is bio compatible and lowers the chances of skin rejecting the pigment, all while keeping the pathogens, bacteria and viruses from forming within the bottle. Only 3 pigment companies in the world have a right to this patented formula and we are proud to say we are one of them. Reference: http://www.novoxx.eu/01/kan.html

HOW DO I FIND OUT MORE ABOUT MY PIGMENTS OR INKS?

As permanent make up artists, it is our responsibility to only use products and ingredients that we believe are best for our clients in the longterm. Question the manufacturer, brand, reseller about product ingredients and their safety.

We must keep in mind that pigments will migrate into lymph nodes, which play a significant role in the health of our immune system.

Everlasting Brows will never use any unsafe, unnecessary or potentially carcinogenic compounds in our pigment line.

For more information on our pigments, to view our MSDS and to make a purchase visit our online store section.

By Alice Kingdom